Organic. Another feather in the cap of this grape’s original gangsters. Quealy’s new singe-block Pinot Grigio is sourced from the estate’s oldest vines (planted in 1996) in the Balnarring vineyard. Here, the mature, dry-grown vines, shallow clay soils and restricted volume are some of the keys to the wine’s expressive character. Then there is the Balnarring climate, which brings flavour early, thus allowing Quealy to pick with freshness in mind. The grapes were handpicked at 11.9 Baumé, then gently whole-bunch pressed (only 580 litres per tonne) so only the finest delicate juice was expressed. It was settled overnight, then racked and allowed to naturally ferment in 25% new wood for four weeks before it was sent back to stainless steel. The wine sat on gross lees with no bâtonnage to chase down a steely and more mineral profile. Made without any additions or filtration. Feri Maris sits at the pinnacle of Quealy’s Pinot Grigio portfolio, and you can expect a richer dose of mouth-filling fruit and more mineral steel in this bottling. On the nose, bright freshness, coastal breezes and orchard fruits set the tone. The palate is laden with stylish yellow citrus and silky orchard fruits, hemmed by mouth-watering oyster shell salinity and phenolic drive. Full of vitality and verve and dripping in character, this is a belter of a first release. We don’t have a review yet, but a little bird told us there is a great appraisal brewing in a certain popular wine guide to be released later in the year. Not that you heard it from us.