2021 Murdoch Hill Artisan Tilbury Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills

Winemaker, Michael Downer, son of owners Charlie and Julie, has made an immediately attractive wine, with fresh, vibrant varietal fruit in the grapefruit/white peach spectrum. Oak is a minor contributor, acidity an important driver to the finish and aftertaste. All up purity.

95 points Halliday's Top 100 Nov 2022

This has impressive power, with such refined and focused structure on offer. Aromas of wet stones and lemon peel with grapefruit pith and sliced peach, as well as hazelnut. The palate is chiseled and long, filling out through the mid section and then building a smooth, creamy texture into the finish. Plenty of peach and nectarine, as well as lemon fruit flavor here. A little hazelnut to close. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

96 points Nick Stock jamessuckling.com

Two-thirds of the 2021 Tilbury was drawn from two vineyards in the Piccadilly Valley, and the remainder from Lobethal. The Lobethal site is close to 500m of elevation and has soils that are loaded with ironstone, contributing fruit with a classic flinty expression and powerful drive. The Piccadilly soils are varied, with sandstone, sandy loam and ironstone.

The 2021 was hand-harvested and whole-bunch pressed into puncheons, demi-muids and a smattering of barriques, for wild fermentation and then maturation for nine months (only 15% new wood). This year saw full malo—thanks to early flavour development and impressive acidity, Downer felt the wine could hold this to assist in “smoothing out the edges”. The wine was left unsulphured until late spring. Lees stirring was employed over winter for freshness, and to add another dimension of flavour.

Crackling with energy and layered with complexity, the 2021 is popping. Driven by citrus and orchard fruits, touched by roasted hazelnut and struck-match complexity, it’s a release that oozes purity with minerally length. One of the best Tilburys to date.