I like this. A wine that embraces a more medium-bodied, compact and restrained archetype, defined by spicy lithe grape tannins as much as McLaren Vale fruit. A southeast-facing site of ironstone. Green olive tapenade, clove, pepper grind and salumi mingle with succulent red cherry, mescal and blue fruit allusions. The tannins, a spindle of spicy, pithy chewiness, attenuated and polymerised by gentle agitation in the right oak (French foudres for 16 months). A strong regional statement. A benchmark, too, for those seeking savouriness over mere amplitude and ripeness. An exercise in fine tannin management.
95 points Ned Goodwin MW winecompanion.com.au
A bright, deep ruby-red in the glass. Blueberry, dried herbs and violet aromatics. Just shy of full-bodied, with bright blueberry fruit, nori and saline-mineral notes, layered with great complexity across the tongue. The tannins are fine and firm and there’s a lick of brightening acidity that drives and lifts it to a very long and bright finish. A wine that will offer great rewards for years to come16 MAR 2022 Drink 2022–2036