2015 Valenciso Rioja Reserva, Rioja

 “Back to 2010” is how Luís Valentín, describes the style of his 2015, a vintage that he rates highly. Sourced from 29 parcels in Briones, Haro, Ollauri, Rodezno and Villalba, it’s a pure Tempranillo that sees 33% new wood and is fresh, floral, textured and refined, with some sweet spices and a core of red berry and black cherry fruit embellished with chalky minerality. 2022-30.

94 points Tim Atkin MW 2021 Rioja Report

Valenciso’s flagship Reserva is a selection of handpicked Tempranillo from the clay/limestone soils around Haro. The grapes are drawn from 29 plots spread across the villages of Villalba, Rodezno, Briones, Haro and Ollauri. They all lie within a five-kilometre radius of the winery.
 
Part of what has been proposed as the Western Sonsierra zone (by Alberto Gil and Antonio Remesal Villar in Rioja: Vinos Silenciosos), Ollauri’s vineyards are noted for their excellent calcáreo soils, altitudes of up to 600 meters and Atlantic-influenced climate. All the vines are managed organically and cropped well below the regional limits. The youngest vines that make the grade here are 60 years old.
 
The Reserva fermented naturally in cement vats, and the wine then aged for 19 months in (mostly) low-toast Radoux French oak barriques. In recent vintages, 10% of the wine has also been raised in low-toast Caucasus oak, further lessening the wine’s already minimal wood influence. Following ageing in barrel, the wine was transferred back to concrete vats to settle for a further 24 months before release. Luis and Carmen find the wine clarifies so well in concrete that there is no need to fine or filter it before bottling.
 
From an Atlantic-styled vintage, 2015 is a more elegant and finessed release than the years on either side. Tasted at the estate this year, it’s a beautifully cool, spicy and elegant Rioja with plenty of strawberry sweetness spiked with resin, brown spices, blood and anise notes. It has a supple texture and a fresh, racy finish. Super classy

As always, this is handpicked Tempranillo from the clay/limestone soils around Haro. The grapes come from 17 plots, including Villalba, Rodezno, Briones and Ollauri, all managed under strict culture raisonnée guidelines and cropped at well below the regional limits. The youngest vines that make the grade here are 60 years old! The Reserva naturally ferments in cement vats and the wine is then aged for 19 months in mostly low-toast Radoux, French oak barriques (roughly one-third new). In recent vintages 10% of the wine has been raised in low-toast Caucasus oak, further lessening the wine’s (already minimal) oak impact. Following aging in barrel, the wine was transferred back to concrete vats to settle for a further 24 months before release. Luis and Carmen find the wine clarifies so well in concrete that there is no need to fine or filter the wine before bottling. With a modern-classical profile combining freshness, elegance and depth, this is an outstanding, multi-layered and complex release from Valenciso. All class.