2021 Domaines Ott Château Romassan Rosé, Bandol

55% Mourvedre, 30% Cinsault, 15% Grenache. Château Romassan sits at the foot of the hilltop village Le Castellet, a few miles north of the Bay of Bandol. The Otts rely on mourvèdre for the bulk of their rosé (this one includes 30 percent cinsault and 15 percent grenache), and, though 2021 was another hot summer here, Romassan's poor limestone and sandstone soils produced a deeply savory wine. This pale Bandol seems to have inhaled the local scrubland and seaside breezes, presenting that savory edge alongside husk cherry, grapefruit and pale melon flavors. Firm and versatile, it would pair nicely with anything from bouillabaisse to a Niçoise salad; or take it abroad alongside chicken yakitori.