2022 Luke Lambert Crudo Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

The Chardonnay fruit comes off Denton’s east-northeast-facing slope of granitic sand over heavy granite boulders. As is the norm, the 2022 was whole-bunch-pressed and wild-yeast fermented with no temperature control. It saw full malo and old oak (2,000-litre French oak foudre) maturation for three to four months, then zero fining or filtration and only minimal sulphur at bottling.
 
Like most decisions made here, the addition of sulphur has been well thought out. Not adding sulphur at the start of the process can allow for alcoholic fermentation and malolactic fermentation to happen simultaneously, something Luke finds crucial to developing complexity with his Chardonnay.
 
From the first pour, Denton’s granitic origins radiate through tangy citrus, summer florals and some light reduction. A picture of balance and harmony, it’s tightly wound with mouth-watering pulpy fruit and flinty minerality offsetting the wine’s latent power and nimble, lithe structure. Restrained and savoury, it’s so delicious, yet also the most focused and refined Crudo Chardonnay yet.