2018 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley

There are an impressive 20,000 cases of the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon with 8% Merlot, 2% each Malbec and Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, aged in 40% new oak. About half of the fruit is sourced from estate (organically grown) vineyards, while the balance is purchased. Lovely herb-inflected cassis and hints of ripe cherries appear on the nose, while the palate is medium to full-bodied, silky and fine, but with some substance and concentration, finishing with soft, dusty tannins. Good concentration, balance, length.

91 points Joe Czerwinski robertparker.com

Founded in 1939 by three businessmen from Southern California, Freemark Abbey was revitalized by a new partnership in 1966, and since 2006, it has been part of the Jackson Family Wines (JFW) portfolio. For four decades, until 2020, Ted Edwards was the winemaker, and while he is still on staff as winemaker emeritus and participates in various blending trials, day-to-day winemaking is now helmed by Kristy Melton. Melton, who hails from Texas, was originally on a medical-biotech career path, even working at the NIH, but she started working at a Maryland winery because she missed being hands-on. She followed that with a master's degree from UC Davis in 2007 and has been in California ever since, working six years at Clos du Val before joining JFW in 2016. She worked with Ted for two years prior to his transition to emeritus status. When Melton joined Freemark Abbey in 2018, her first big project was to rejuvenate the Chardonnay program. "We're moving toward a more classic Napa style," she said, when we met at Cardinale to taste through the wines. The Chardonnay is mostly barrel fermented and sees about one-third new oak, but she said she is looking for a softer oak influence, using some water-bent barrels and only medium toast. The meat and potatoes of Freemark Abbey are the Cabernets, which come in three tiers: Napa Valley, AVA (Oakville and Rutherford bottlings are made) and single vineyards (Bosché and Sycamore). "I'm trying to find the balance so that they can drink well young, with enough acidity to drink well with fatty meats," said Melton. "That acidity will allow the wines to age 20 years. I try not to manipulate too much, so that you can see the vintage and the site in each of the wines." Our tasting covered the 2018 Cabs, which Melton described as being a "Goldilocks vintage," while allowing that it was a year with lots of vegetative growth, so attentive canopy management was required. Even with a green harvest, it was a big harvest that Melton said "has given nice, fruity, round wines." Melton only produced white wine in 2020. With the light pressing she does, she doesn't feel the whites were affected by smoke taint. "We had a lovely, unremarkable spring, some heat spikes in summer," she said. "We finished picking [reds] first week of October. Chardonnay was picked late August to early September, quite early." Consumers and restaurateurs looking for aged Napa Cabs should check out Freemark Abbey's annual library release program, normally scheduled for fall. The winery usually releases 10- and 20-year-old wines from its considerable stock of back vintages. The 2012 and 2002 Sycamores being released this year are both outstanding and ready to drink.

75.8% Cabernet Sauvignon 16.2% Merlot 4.0% Malbec 3% Petit Verdot 1% Cabernet Franc

Dark ruby in color, the flavors such as blackberry, boysenberry and Bing cherry dominate with nuances of milk chocolate, chocolate berry truffle dusted with cocoa powder, aromatic cedar and Herbs de Provence. The sweet oak spice is very well integrated, adding to the overall complexity. The body is very full, with a soft entry, coupled with dark cherry flavors that develop from start to finish. With great texture, integrated tannins, and pleasant mouth feel, this cabernet is full bodied, rich and opulent. In one word.... delicious.