The 2019 Rully En Guesnes is excellent, mingling aromas of cherries and cassis with hints of loamy soil, rose petals and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, with powdery tannins and a bright core of fruit, this is well worth seeking out.
As usual, I reported in spring on Vincent Dureuil's superb 2018s from bottle, wines that I tasted in bottle in my Beaune office during France's first COVID-19 lockdown, which deprived me of my customary annual visit. So, I couldn't resist heading down to Rully after harvest 2020 to take an early look at the 2019s from barrel. I'm planning a vertical tasting with Dureuil later in 2021, which will go into more detail about his appellations, viticulture and winemaking. So, for now, I'll confine myself to reaffirming what a fine address this is and encouraging readers not to miss any of Dureuil's 2019s—the smallest vintage of his career and a range that includes what may be his best reds to date.
This 20-hectare domaine ranks as the finest winery in the Côte Chalonnaise. Organic farming, cultivated soils and virtuosic winemaking combine to striking effect, yielding textural but incisive whites and perfumed, supple reds that number among my favorite wines in Burgundy…Plenty will find a place in my own cellar, and I couldn’t recommend them to readers more warmly than that.
90-92 points William Kelley robertparker.com
En Guesnes, or Ez Guesnes as it appears on the map, is a cracking little site tucked up behind the 1er Cru Le Meix Cadot. Dureuil has a little Chardonnay here, but it’s the 1.3 hectares of 40 year old Pinot Noir vines on the cool, clay-limestone soils that make up the bulk of his holdings. We never fail to request an allocation of this wine, (although we don’t always get one!). It’s always outstanding.