2022 Garagiste Terre Maritime Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula

The Terre Maritime is drawn from several rows of Chardonnay in the top corner of Merricks Grove. Barney Flanders has always felt this parcel could result in a superb and unique Chardonnay—in this part of the vineyard, the 26-year-old vines are rooted in brown soils rather than the more common reddish dirt of the area. The parcel also faces slightly east, offering the vines a cooler, more sheltered aspect. There’s therefore less vigour here than in the rest of the vineyard and the bunches are a touch smaller. As a result, the fruit from this parcel tends to make a wine that has real intensity without forgoing the finesse we associate with Garagiste Chardonnay. It was raised in large, seasoned oak.

This is another fabulous Chardonnay, with a captivating bouquet of orange citrus and orchard fruits, chalky minerality, white florals and perfectly pitched smoky reduction. The palate has a potent core; power, density and fleshy weight are matched by coiled acidity, phenolic grip and a long-reaching, spicy, savoury finish. In a word: exceptional.