2017 Coldstream Hills Reserve Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

This wine was fermented and matured on lees for nine months in new (56%) and seasoned French oak puncheons and barriques.

Pale straw with trace green. Bouquet is restrained, yet powerful displaying aromatic notes of white peach, nectarine and white flowers. Underlying mineral slate and nougat is complemented by seamless French oak spice. Palate is fine and pure with great intensity, texture and length of flavour. The palate has real presence, with characters of white peach, lemon barley and nougat dominating. Subtle French oak and nuances of mineral slate add further complexity, with beautifully balanced lemon acidity giving drive and focus. One for the cellar. Drink now to 2030.

First you notice the power, then the poise, then the persistence. All the ducks are in a row here. White peach, flint, toast, fresh fennel and cedar wood characters create a seductive weave from the start to impressively long finish.

In a richer, more forward and fuller-bodied style than the Deer Farm, this is its alter-ego. An ample, generous wine with toasty oak showing, full-bodied and open-knit yet also finely-textured. (Chardonnay trophy at the 2018 Brisbane wine show) Drink 2018–2026