2023 Howard Park Leston Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River

96 points Ray Jordan

" I don’t think I’ve seen a better Leston cabernet over the years..."

The 2023 season is proving itself to be an excellent vintage of Wilyabrup Cabernet. The Leston announces itself with heady aromas of blackcurrant and dark plums, with delicate notes of violets and fresh mint lifting the nose further. The concentrated and texturally humming palate follows suit, with generous dark fruit gently guided by powdery tannins towards a long, fresh classically styled dry.

Clear the table and make this the centrepiece of a fabulous weekend dinner. It is a great partner for a slow-braised beef shin in a rich red wine, rosemary, and porcini mushroom reduction. The wine’s powerful blackcurrant core matches the immense depth of the slow-cooked beef, while its vibrant, structured tannins cut effortlessly through the rich, melting marrow sauce.

Keeping it casual? Pour a glass with a premium wagyu beef burger topped with sharp vintage cheddar, truffled mayo, and a handful of rocket. The wine's powdery tannins provide the perfect structural grip for the rich wagyu fat, while the subtle minty, leafy notes in the glass add a brilliantly fresh contrast to the truffle and cheese.

More about this wine

Howard Park is a family-owned winery with more than 40 years of experience in Western Australia’s Margaret River and Great Southern regions. From its 1986 origin in the latter, the estate has grown to five properties: Leston and Allingham in Margaret River, Mount Barrow and Abercrombie in the Great Southern, and Forest View in Pemberton. Each site has a different focus but the overarching theme is control: tailoring each vine and seasonal bud and keeping the fruit and the expertise in-house.

The Leston vineyard in the Wilyabrup subregion of Margaret River is the home of Howard Park, and sits on a property acquired by the Burch family in 1988. The ‘Houghton’ clone of Cabernet Sauvignon is planted across several blocks here, the vines rooted in lateritic gravels over clay loam.

2023 was an excellent season for Cabernet Sauvignon in this region. Fruit was handpicked and sorted manually before fermentation. Fermentation occurred in a combination of closed stainless steel fermenters and small open top fermenters. Selected parcels remained on skins after fermentation to further enhance the tannin profile while others were pressed at dryness to capture fruit vibrancy. Each batch was matured separately for 18 months in French oak, of which a quarter were new. The blended wine was lightly fined ahead of bottling.

Critic reviews

96 points Ray Jordan Wine Review 2026

“I don’t think I’ve seen a better Leston cabernet over the years, and that’s not surprising given the maturity of the vineyards now and the excellence of the vintage. It’s been crafted to produce a wine that is both elegant and poised, with concentrated deep fruit characters presented with control and focus. Aromas of intense blackcurrant and plum, with slightly minty leafy notes. The palate shows deep concentration, with brightness and energy punching through to the finish. Drink to 2035.”

95 points Jane Faulkner for Halliday Wine Companion, June 2025 (Special Value)

“Overall, there’s seems to be more restraint with the reds from ’23, a lovely cooler vintage, although this still gets 25% new oak and was aged 18 months. Yet the fruit has taken it all in. Plenty of varietal charm, the fine, powdery tannins and tangy acidity adding to the succulence across the fuller-bodied palate before a fresh, dry finish. Drink to 2036.”

94 points James Suckling

“Aromas of blackcurrants, licorice, spices, dark cherries, violets and crushed blackberries. The palate is energetic and vibrant with firmly framed yet finely integrated tannins and a textural mouthfeel, showing generous amounts of fruit with underlying savory notes. Well-balanced with plenty of time ahead in bottle. Drink or hold.” 

93 points Angus Hughson for Wine Pilot, June 2025

“This well-priced and quite serious 2023 Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon is classically proportioned and ripples with blackcurrant and blueberry sharpened by hints of pine and violets, with good power. Firm and tightly wound with gravelly nuances in a compact style with firm acidity and tannins well balanced for enjoyment over the medium term. Drink to 2040.”