2023 Mr. Riggs The Gaffer Shiraz, McLaren Vale

The Gaffer is Ben Riggs’ special Shiraz that he leverages fund-raising for cancer research. It’s a ripper in its own right as an all-encompassing McLaren Vale Shiraz sourced from five different district vineyards, warmer to cooler sites across the region for a range of varying parcels before bringing together this everyday yet standout wine. It’s bloody delicious with fresh and lively crimson fruits, a pleasing depth of flavour and mid-weight power, supported by well judged oak (mostly French) for spice rather than timber. A genuine understanding and expression of that much-loved sweet spot of McLaren Vale Shiraz goodness.

95 points Tony Love for Wine Pilot, September 2025

This is a most stylish example of McLaren Vale Shiraz. It was a cool season, which is reflected in a slightly more restrained and yet still compelling and flavoursome wine that captures so much of what McLaren Vale is all about. It’s designed to be soft and plush and generous with the fruit dominance obvious from the outset. And yet there is some fine tannin in here, contributing to its poise and finish. A slightly gravelly note on the palate adds a textural complexity that’s most appealing. This is a wine that, over the years, has contributed more than $220,000 towards cancer research, with a share of the purchase price going into this incredibly worthy cause. Drink to 2035.

93 points Ray Jordan for Wine Pilot, September 2025

There are many reasons you should buy this wine – buy and drink it often. It offers the tantalising florals and animation that only the Vale can bring and delivers it right to the heart of your mid palate with impact. All for under $30. Some carob and coffee spice underlies the fruit and a hint of cinnamon on the tail end. Always good value. Drink to 2028.

91 points The Vintage Journal

This is made up of estate fruit and four other sites, with 10–15% new oak for maturation. This is a reliably consistent label for quality, style and value. It’s more medium weighted, the variation in sites allowing for intensity and elegance. Quite ferrous, sweet fruited – black berries, dark plum – but earthy, spicy, with scrubland notes and anise. The tannins are assertive but not overly drying; it's made for the table. Drink to 2029.

90 points (Special Value) Marcus Ellis for Halliday Wine Companion, March 2026

Dark plummy red in the glass. Aromas of plum, mulberry, dried herbs, eucalyptus and spice. Generously flavoured, dark fruited, plush and mouth-filling, with plenty of shapely tannins defining the length and texture. Smart value. Drink to 2035.

90 points Aaron Brasher for The Real Review, November 2025

About this wine

The Gaffer is a tribute to Ben Riggs’ great-great-great grandfather, John ‘The Gaffer’ Riggs (1814-1902), who was one of South Australia’s most renowned farmers. Since 2006 The Gaffer Shiraz has worn its pink cap in acknowledgement of a partnership with the Flinders Foundation and their fight against cancer.

The fruit was sourced from five vineyards: Martins, Gateway, John Rivers, Tim Hunts and Piebald Gully, all in different sub-regions of McLaren Vale, picked on different days and fermented separately in five-tonne open fermenters for seven to ten days. The wine was matured in predominantly French oak and the components assessed and blended just before bottling.

About this producer

Founded in 2001, the Mr. in Mr Riggs is winemaker Ben Riggs, whose wines, in his own words, are inspired by Ella Fitzgerald – bombastic and powerful with a huge vocal range, yet with purity of tone and a gentle sensibility when needed.