2022 Bloody Hill Villages Chardonnay, Panton Hill Yarra Valley

A bright green gold. Ripe yellow stone fruits and pink grapefruit pith intermingle with the already well-integrated oak and just a hint of brine. Gently textured and grippy, this finishes fine and long – my guess is that this is a wine to enjoy in the short- to medium-term.

93 points Phillip Rich winecompanion.com.au

Pale lemon in the glass. Aromas of lime curd, crushed cashews and dry hay, whilst the palate offers a little more stone fruit and smoky nut complexity. Quite supple and soft on the tongue, it glides delicate and long to the dry finish. A wine of subtlety and finesse 31 DEC 2022 Drink 2023–2031

93 points Stuart Knox therealreview.com

Bloody Hill is the rebellious little sibling of cult Yarra Valley producer Timo Mayer, with the wines made by his son Rivar Mayer and carrying the same restless, minimal-intervention spirit that has made the family name so sought after. The Villages Chardonnay comes from Panton Hill in the warmer, northern reaches of the Yarra Valley, giving Rivar a distinctive site from which to build a Chardonnay with personality, texture and plenty of energy. Small production and a devoted following mean these bottles rarely hang around for long.

The 2022 vintage delivered beautifully concentrated fruit while retaining the acidity and freshness that give Yarra Chardonnay its edge. Panton Hill’s elevated, undulating vineyards and cool nights help temper the warmer northern Yarra climate, while Rivar’s hands-off approach in the cellar keeps the wine lively, expressive and far removed from polished, formulaic Chardonnay.

Pale gold in the glass, the nose opens with white peach, nectarine and lemon curd, followed by grapefruit skin, struck match and roasted hazelnut. With air, there’s a little sourdough, crushed stone and salted butter lurking underneath. The palate has lovely texture without heaviness, with ripe stone fruit cut by citrus acidity and a savoury, slightly smoky mineral line. The finish is energetic and mouthwatering, with lemon oil, toasted nuts and a delicious saline snap.

This wants something with a bit of attitude: roast chicken with tarragon and crispy skin, grilled king prawns with burnt butter, fish tacos with lime and jalapeño, mushroom and taleggio toasties or proper fish and chips with plenty of tartare sauce. And if you’re feeling particularly civilised, a plate of Comté and warm baguette will disappear rather quickly alongside it.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.