2023 Fabien Coche Meursault Les Chevalieres, Burgundy

Domaine Fabien Coche ... is one of the most underrated sources of high-quality white Burgundy in the Côte de Beaune. Alain Coche took his time, leaving his wines on the lees to mature at a leisurely pace for two winters, and produced classically balanced, textbook Meursault that evolved beautifully in the cellar; today, his son Fabien follows suit, with a few small refinements: today, the Coche harvest takes two weeks, not one, with each parcel brought in at optimal maturity, and there are more larger-format barrels in the cellar alongside the regular Burgundian pièces. These are not stylized, flashy wines, and they aren’t as dramatic as some of the region’s more sought-after domaines on release, but readers with the patience to cellar them will be amply rewarded.

William Kelley robertparker.com

Fabien Coche's Les Chevalières showcases one of Meursault's most prestigious Premier Cru climats, where the 2023 vintage delivers an exceptional expression of this renowned hillside vineyard. Positioned on the upper slopes with ideal southeast exposure, Les Chevalières benefits from ancient limestone bedrock and optimal drainage, producing wines of remarkable concentration and longevity that rank among Burgundy's finest white wines.

Brilliant pale gold with subtle green highlights, this Premier Cru reveals an intensely complex bouquet of white orchid, Meyer lemon, and quince, enhanced by sophisticated mineral notes of flint, wet chalk, and subtle gun smoke. The wine displays greater depth and precision than other Meursault cuvées, with the distinctive terroir contributing layers of complexity that unfold gradually in the glass. Oak integration is masterful, providing structure and richness without masking the pure fruit expression.

On the palate, Les Chevalières is full-bodied yet remarkably elegant, with a silky texture that speaks to both the vineyard's quality and Coche's winemaking expertise. Flavors of candied lemon peel, white nectarine, and toasted almonds are woven together with a pronounced saline minerality and vibrant acidity that provides exceptional length and focus. The finish extends beautifully, revealing waves of citrus zest, honeycomb, and crushed limestone that evolve continuously.

This exceptional Premier Cru demands equally sophisticated pairings such as roasted turbot with truffle butter, lobster medallions with saffron cream, or pan-seared foie gras with apple compote. The wine's complexity also complements refined preparations like Dover sole meunière, roasted capon with herbs, or aged Beaufort cheese with honeycomb.