2024 Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Bianco, Sicily

Fresh and floral but with white pepper and a noticeably assertive smoky minerality. Light-bodied, this shines with silky texture and zesty yet integrated acidity. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

94 points James Suckling

Tenuta delle Terre Nere helped put modern Etna on the fine wine map. Marco de Grazia established the estate on the northern slopes of Mount Etna in the early 2000s, recognising the extraordinary potential of its high altitude vineyards, ancient vines and volcanic soils. The reds may have first captured international attention, but the whites have become every bit as compelling, combining Sicilian sunshine with the cool, mineral personality of the mountain.

The Etna Bianco is centred on Carricante, the great white grape of Etna, supported by traditional local varieties. Altitude, dramatic shifts between day and night temperatures and Etna’s dark volcanic soils give the wine its distinctive tension. The 2024 has plenty of citrus and orchard fruit, but it is the smoky, salty character underneath that makes it unmistakably Etna.

Pale straw gold, with lemon, yellow apple and white peach opening the bouquet. Grapefruit, chamomile and fennel follow, then crushed rock, almond and a faint smoky note. The palate is dry and beautifully energetic, with preserved lemon and citrus running through a gently textured centre. Salty almond, volcanic stone and a subtle herbal bitterness emerge towards the finish, leaving it clean, savoury and wonderfully mouth watering.

Chargrilled octopus with lemon and oregano immediately comes to mind, along with spaghetti alle vongole, swordfish with capers and parsley, garlic prawns or cauliflower with toasted almonds and preserved lemon. Our pick is the swordfish. Its meaty texture, salty capers and lemon are made for the smoky, mineral side of Etna Bianco.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2034.