1964 Toro Albala Don PX Convento Seleccion, Montilla-Moriles Andalucia

15.5% ABV. My favorite of all the old sweet PXs I tasted this time was the perfumed and showy 1964 Don PX Convento Selección, which still has the wooden label, but it has also been modernized and made easier to read. It is denser than any of the other wines and has a brighter edge, amber, because the center is opaque and black. It has an incredible perfume; it's floral and spicy with fresher aromas than I remember in the other sweet PXs. It fills your mouth, goes down your throat like liquid gold and explodes in the eternal finish. It's an amazing PX with 15.5% alcohol, lower that most, and with 377 grams of sugar, also lower than most. Elegant and intense, simply delicious. There are 4,630 bottles of this wine, all bottled in February 2022.

99 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate 

From the deepest reaches of the Toro Albalá cellars, the 1964 Don PX Convento Selección is drawn from some of the estate’s oldest casks, where decades of slow oxidation have shaped something extraordinarily concentrated and complex. Made from Pedro Ximénez grapes dried under the Andalusian sun, this is less a sweet wine and more a meditation on time, intensity and craftsmanship.

The aromatics are vast and layered, raisin, fig and date wrapped in molasses, espresso and dark chocolate, with burnt orange peel adding lift. With this level of age, tertiary notes take centre stage, walnut, antique wood, leather and a deep rancio character that brings a savoury, almost umami like dimension.

It unfolds slowly, thick and luxurious, coating everything with wave after wave of flavour. The sweetness is immense yet beautifully controlled, balanced by a gentle bitterness and a thread of freshness that keeps it from feeling heavy. Flavours of toffee, coffee, caramelised nuts and spice seem to go on endlessly.

This is a wine to take your time with. Blue cheese is a classic, but it is just as compelling with bitter chocolate, roasted nuts or simply on its own as a quiet end to a meal.

Fully mature and in a remarkable place, it will continue to hold for years once opened if stored well.