1964 Toro Albala Palo Cortado Marques de Poley 200ml, Montilla-Moriles Andalucia

22% ABV. The 1964 Palo Cortado Marqués de Poley Selección was aged in a solera system of which 50 botas remain. It's a very old fortified wine produced with Pedro Ximénez grapes, aged in well-seasoned American oak barrels. It is full-bodied, which hints at an Oloroso origin, and has the aromas of a very old wine with rusty nail, saltpeter, low tide, phosphor and matchstick notes with a volatile twist. Wines like this are not meant to be consumed by the general public (the price already prevents that) as their style is not easy to appreciate and might seem aggressive to some. There are 24,000 liters of this wine.

94-96 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate 

Pulled from one of the oldest soleras at Toro Albalá, this 1964 Palo Cortado Marqués de Poley is a remarkable example of what time can do in Montilla Moriles. Founded in 1922, the estate has become a reference point for long aged wines, and Palo Cortado is where things get particularly interesting, starting under flor before moving into oxidative ageing, gaining depth while keeping a lifted, almost ethereal edge.

The aromatics feel almost endless. Toasted almond, hazelnut and citrus peel sit at the core, layered with dried fig, spice and something distinctly savoury. With this level of age, more complex notes take over, antique wood, tobacco leaf, old leather and a refined rancio character that adds depth without heaviness. There’s also a faint saline note that keeps everything feeling alive.

It carries itself with elegance. Bone dry, yet incredibly expressive, with a silky texture that seems to float rather than sit heavy. Flavours of roasted nuts, caramel, citrus oil and spice unfold slowly, held together by a subtle line of freshness. The finish is long, savoury and slightly bitter, in that way that makes you want another sip.

This is a wine to explore rather than just drink. Jamón ibérico is a natural match, but it’s just as compelling with aged cheeses, roasted almonds or something like grilled artichokes with olive oil. For a different angle, try it with a mushroom and walnut pâté or a simple onion tart where the savoury notes really connect.

Fully mature and holding beautifully, it will last well once opened if stored properly, though bottles this size rarely last that long.

There’s a quiet depth here, a wine shaped by decades, offering complexity, elegance and a sense of history in every glass.