1977 Toro Albala Don PX Convento Seleccion 750ml, Montilla-Moriles Andalucia

16% ABV. The 1977 Don PX Convento Selección has a high-pitched and acute note of caramelized orange peel that gives it a distinct and perhaps more forward profile. It matured in Amontillado casks for over 45 years without being blended, and it aged in different parts of their cellars throughout its life, which they say might add to its complexity. It has 16% alcohol and 395 grams of sugar, not as dense as the others and with a distinct note of cinnamon in the finish. This is gentler, showier, perhaps with a little more makeup but certainly very attractive. They filled 4,800 numbered bottles in January 2024.

96 points, Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate 

From a slightly rarer tier within the Toro Albalá cellar, the Convento Selección bottlings are drawn from the estate’s oldest and most concentrated casks, often aged for extraordinary lengths of time before release. The 1977 is a deeply layered expression of Pedro Ximénez, made from sun dried grapes and shaped over decades into something far beyond simple sweetness, more a study in patience, oxidation and intensity.

The aromatics are dense and captivating, raisin, fig and date wrapped in molasses, espresso and dark chocolate, with burnt orange peel and a hint of spice. With this level of age, more tertiary notes emerge, walnut, antique wood, old leather and a touch of rancio that adds a savoury, almost umami like complexity.

It unfolds slowly and luxuriously, thick and viscous, coating the palate with wave after wave of flavour. Sweetness is immense but beautifully controlled, balanced by a gentle bitterness and lift that keeps it from feeling heavy. Toffee, coffee, caramelised nuts and dried fruit linger for what feels like minutes.

This is a wine to savour in small pours. Blue cheese is a classic, but it’s equally compelling with bitter dark chocolate, roasted nuts or simply poured over vanilla ice cream. It also stands confidently on its own, a contemplative end to a meal.

Fully mature and in a remarkable place, it will hold for years once opened if stored well.