2004 Krug Brut, Champagne

99 points James Halliday winecompanion.com.au

Krug's 2004 Vintage is absolutely mesmerizing. Layers of bright, chiseled fruit open up effortlessly as the wine fleshes out with time in the glass. Persistent and beautifully focused, with a translucent sense of energy, the 2004 captures all the best qualities of the year. Moreover, the 2004 is clearly superior to the consistently underwhelming 2002 and the best Krug Vintage since 1996. Readers who can find it should not hesitate, as it is a magical bottle. Drink 2017-2044

Combining delicacy, balance and bountiful citrus of all types, Krug 2004 – named 'Luminous Freshness' by the House – evokes the sensations of early summer mornings in Champagne.At first sight, the beautiful light golden colour promises radiant freshness. The nose begins with an expressive bouquet of ginger, candied citrus and quince, followed by richer notes evoking lemon meringue tart, plum and Mirabelle.

On the palate, a very balanced Champagne with light notes of brioche and honey giving way to an array of fresh citrus, including oranges, lemons and mandarins, enhanced by a very elegant finish.

Paying close attention to every vineyard’s character, respecting the individuality of each plot and its wine allowed Eric Lebel to identify the music of the year. He brought it to life by creating a composition marked by elegance and bountiful citrus. Krug 2004 is a dialogue between shining Chardonnays (39%) and the backbone of Pinot Noir (37%) combined with the vivacity, tension and citrus notes of Meunier (24%).

The elegance of Krug 2004 comes after over 12 years in the cellars gaining in harmony, expression and finesse. Krug 2004 is the last of the second trilogy in the history of the House, the first being 1988, 1989 and 1990 and the second 2002, 2003 and 2004. As with all Krug Champagnes, Krug 2004 will continue to gain with the passage of time.