Vintage Brut 2004 with red wine; 62% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, 8% Meunier; 15% red wine from Bouzy; a blend of about 20 Montagne de Reims grand and premier crus; 9g/L dosage
Clicquot’s Vintage Rosé philosophy is to blend its Vintage Brut with red wines of structure and tannin to create more character. Already in the market for 3.5 years, the bottle I tasted in Bouzy took me by complete surprise, showing even less development than this cuvée exhibited two years ago, endowed in magnificent elegance and grace, with a freshness of red berry, apple and pear that belied its medium crimson copper hue.
A wine of very fine chalk minerality, subtle tannins and outstanding persistence, promising a very long future. A bottle tasted in Australia was much truer to the evolution I anticipated, notably toasty and savoury, with nuances of flinty reduction. Its fleshiness had dimmed, making space for tannin structure to step forward, asserting itself with structural drive yet, to its credit, in no way dried out or bitter. Its depth of tertiary complexity is yet to build, placing it in something of an in-between phase. It’s progressing to a happy place, and needs another five years to get there.