This is the first release since 2000, with 2001 and 2003 write-offs and more elegant 2002 and 2004 reserved for Piper-Heidsieck; 60% pinot noir, 40% chardonnay from just 11 villages, with a strong base of Ambonnay, then Verzy, verzenay, Bouzy, Avize, Oger, Cramant, Vertus, mailly and Vindey; 10g/L dosage.
My first tasting of this cuvee was its first showing following its release in late 2014. After a five-year hiatus 2005 is a bold vintage to chooose for this cuvee, and it's not shy on muscle, nor the wood spice notes, almond-skin grip, drying phenolic texture and firm, chewy structure that defines the season.
For many years, this wine was austere and unfriendly, and now it is starting to open up. Heidsieck has conjured a flattering take on this season, cunningly using creaminess, golden layers of ripe yellow summer fruits and honeyed dosage to counter its drying mouthfeel. The volume of the season and its pinot noir lead are well expressed in emerging notes of black cherry, notes of spice and hints of pepper, with a decade of maturity defining the aged completely of coffee, roast-chestnuts, mushrooms, wood smoke and the classic autumn leaf character of the house.
It's at once succulent, silky and exuberant at the the same time structured and dry.
95 points Tyson Stelzer The Champagne Guide