2009 Champagne Philipponnat Clos Des Goisses, Vallee de la Marne

Bright gold, with fine, delicate froth mousse. Initially the nose is very expressive and complex, with spicy, toasted notes of chili and pepper. On being aerated it reveals fruit-laden aromas of Morello, Amarena and black cherries. Fresh and mineral-driven. The fruity notes of Morello cherry and spices are apparent on the finish. An intense, well-structured wine with a wonderfully long finish.

Cellar aged for nine years and put on the market only when perfectly mature, it can then be kept for several decades and will continue to develop magnificently in the right conditions.

The 2009 Clos des Goisses has been very tight in two recent tastings, which is probably a very good thing for its long-term prospects, but less so for readers seeking the immediacy that is common in so many 2009 Champagnes. White flowers, orchard fruit, mint white pepper and citrus peel add to the wine’s bright profile. Readers should plan on being extremely patient, as the 2009 Goisses does not show much, if any, early appeal, even if the density and textural persistence of the great years are both there. The 2009 is 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay. Dosage is 4.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: March, 2018.