2009 Francois Chidaine Vin de France Vouvray Rive Droite, Loire Valley

From grapes grown on deep clay and chalky soils, this wine is cellar-aged in large demi-muid casks. It has notes of honey, quince and apricot, with a touch of saffron. The palate has a precise, fine-grained texture and a minty freshness. An elegant wine.

96 points Yohan Castaing decanter.com

If the domaine’s Montlouis Rive Gauche is a rare bird, its counterpart from Vouvray is rarer still. As fans of Domaine Huet will attest, 2009 was a sensational year in the Loire for our growers’ sweet styles, and the apple has not fallen far from the tree here. Crafted from hand-selected botrytised grapes from L’Espagnole and L’Homme, this incredibly complex wine fermented at snail's pace for well over a year until it finished with 130 g/L of residual sugar.

Finally released after 13 years in Chidaine’s cellar, it’s oozing brightness and energy. A kaleidoscope of flavours and textures unfolds in the glass with roasted peach drizzled with honey, candied apricot and a procession of invigorating citrus and spice, all underscored by botrytis grip and herbal freshness. Tinged with truffle and saffron complexity, the finish is endless. How Chidaine conjured such a sense of balance must be some kind of sorcery! Drink with great bread liberally smeared with salty Roquefort.