2009 Mitchell McNicol Riesling, Clare Valley

This is a delicious wine, with a golden yellow hue inflected with lime at the edges as a paean to the joys of mid-life. Quince marmalade, lime, ginger, cumquat and candied citrus of all descriptions beam from the glass, reverberating on a palate that is both layered, slightly warm vintage skinsy and yet, riding a riesling undercarriage of vibrant acidity. The ripeness of the fruit is compelling, almost suggestive of a tad of botrytis. This wonderful riesling represents the apogee of a tweak to the regional approach, having been fermented in 30hl foudre before spending 12 months on lees. This is a far more spicy, complex, richer Germanic take than the stainless steel Clare Valley norm, yet the Clare's lime splice notes remain unmistakable.

96 points Ned Goodwin James Halliday Wine Companion