2010 Ox Hardy 1891 Ancestor Vines Shiraz, McLaren Vale

The deep colour has retained a tinge of purple, and the bouquet is loaded with blackberry and dark cherry, with hints of cherry-brandy and star anise. The wine is miraculously rich, full-bodied, opulent and succulent, with abundant fine, supple tannins and gorgeous balance. An outstanding wine. 16 May 2019 Drink 2019–2030

97 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com

There's magic in this wine, starting with its brilliant crimson-purple colour through to the rim, the bouquet telling you this is no false dawn. Its purity, balance and attention to detail are akin to a miniature painting from the 16th century, red fruits skipping around the perimeter of the gloriously long finish.

97 points James Halliday winecompanion.com.au

The 2010 Ox Hardy 1891 Ancestor Vines Shiraz is a living piece of McLaren Vale history in a bottle. These vines were planted in 1891, deep rooted survivors that have seen wars, depressions and generations of winemakers come and go. By the time fruit from vines this old reaches the winery, it carries an intensity and natural balance that simply cannot be replicated by younger plantings.

Ox Hardy is the alter ego of Mark Hardy, a fifth generation member of one of Australia’s most famous wine families. This label is where Mark lets loose, celebrating old vineyards, small batches and wines that lean into character rather than polish. The Ancestor Vines Shiraz is the crown jewel, sourced from a tiny parcel of ancient Shiraz in McLaren Vale, grown in classic sandy and ironstone influenced soils that give both power and savoury depth.

The 2010 vintage delivered ideal conditions for wines built to age. Fermentation is traditional and unforced, with maturation designed to frame the fruit rather than dominate it. Everything about this wine is guided by respect for the vineyard and the sheer rarity of the material being handled.

In the glass, the wine is deep and brooding yet beautifully composed. Dark plum, blackberry and mulberry lead the way, followed by layers of liquorice, aniseed, dark chocolate and earth. There is a distinctly savoury edge running through it, hints of ironstone, dried herbs and pepper that speak clearly of McLaren Vale. The palate is dense but calm, with tannins that feel worn smooth by time, carrying the finish long and steady.

This is a wine made for slow dinners and quiet moments. Braised lamb, slow cooked beef, game or richly flavoured vegetable dishes all feel right at home. Thanks to its time in bottle, it is drinking superbly now, yet the core remains strong and assured, promising further development for those who prefer to wait.