Disgorged July 2018, Tasted in Champagne and Australia
40.5% Cramant, 27% Chouilly (mostly Mont Aigu), 6% Oger, 16% Cuis, 10.5% Vertus; aged 7 years on lees; 5.5 atmospheres of pressure; 4.5g/L dosage; 33,680 bottles
‘Fleuron’ means ‘best of’, created when there was only one non-vintage and one vintage wine in the house. Today it is Gimonnet’s signature vintage cuvée, a blend of the best parcels from each village, boasting almost three-quarters grand cru Côte des Blancs, a preposterous proportion for a wine of this price. Gimonnet’s goal here is to capture the taste of the domaine and the spirit of the season in a single blend of complexity, more about structure and focus than the immediacy of Gastronome.
A complex and immediate take on this mandate, 2010 is a vintage that fast developed on its release three years ago into a medium-straw hue (bright by any standards, yet deep for Gimonnet) and grand complexity. Amazingly, it has since held its own magnificently. After three more years on lees, its subtle evolution for a fast-evolving vintage is testament to the endurance of this house and its terroirs. Its vivacious core of lemon and grapefruit remain, as does its progression into mixed spice, toast, ginger and honey, now adding vanilla, nougat and toasted marshmallow to the party. It presents integrity and persistence remarkable for this weaker harvest. The impact of salty grand cru minerality remains transfixed, defining a long finish of vibrant acid line, invisible dosage and subtle, well-handled phenolic grip. I admired it then years ago, and I love it even more now.