2011 Flametree Jeremy John Cabernet Malbec, Margaret River

Exceptionally deep crimson-purple; a barrel selection of the best parcels from the '11 vintage, itself a memorable year; intense blackcurrant fruit is layered with plum ex the malbec, and supported by plentiful, but ripe, tannins, French oak adding yet another dimension. This wine will still be kicking goals 40 years on from its vintage; give it a chance for at least 10 years. Tasted September 2014

97 points James Halliday Wine Companion 

From a standout Margaret River producer, the Jeremy John range represents Flametree’s top tier, named in honour of the founders’ family. With Cliff Royle as winemaker, the wines are shaped with a focus on balance and regional expression, drawing on premium vineyard sites across the region. This Cabernet Malbec blend leans into both structure and richness, with time in bottle now revealing a more layered, evolved side.

The 2011 vintage was cooler and more challenging, producing wines that favoured finesse over power. In the hands of an experienced winemaker and with careful cellaring, these wines can develop beautifully, showing savoury complexity and integration.

Now sitting in a mature phase, the colour has softened into deep garnet with a brick edge. Aromatics have moved well into tertiary territory, blackcurrant and plum evolving into cedar, tobacco leaf and dried herbs. The Malbec adds a darker fruit tone and a touch of floral lift, while notes of earth, spice and a hint of cocoa build with air.

The palate is supple and resolved, with fine, softened tannins carrying flavours of cassis, mulberry and savoury spice. There is a gentle roundness from the Malbec, balanced by Cabernet’s structure and line. Tertiary notes of leather, dried herbs and earthy complexity flow through a long, composed finish.

This is a natural partner for dishes with depth. Slow cooked lamb, braised beef or game dishes all work beautifully, as do aged cheeses that mirror its savoury profile.

Drinking beautifully now, fully in its window, though it will continue to hold for a few more years in good cellars.

There is a quiet elegance here, a reminder that cooler vintages, given time, can deliver wines of real charm and nuance, offering a more understated expression of Margaret River.