2011 Tenute Sella 1671 Lessona, Piedmont

Quite a challenging, earthy and mature Lessona. Serious with elegant tannins on the medium-to full-bodied palate, but then a slightly tart finish. Much better drunk with food than by itself.

90 points jamessuckling.com

Tenute Sella 1671 Lessona is Piedmont with its jacket off, all elegance, nerve and quiet confidence. Lessona sits high in the Alto Piemonte, far north of Barolo and Barbaresco, where Nebbiolo behaves very differently. Here it is lighter on its feet, more aromatic and driven by minerality rather than sheer weight. The soils are ancient marine sands, rich in iron and quartz, and the climate is cooler, shaped by Alpine breezes that preserve freshness and line.

The Sella family has been farming and making wine here since 1671, which makes them one of Italy’s great historic wine families. Long before Alto Piemonte began its modern revival, Tenute Sella was quietly keeping the flame alive, convinced that Lessona was one of Nebbiolo’s most refined expressions. This is estate grown Nebbiolo, handled with a gentle touch, fermented traditionally and aged in large oak to respect the perfume and structure of the site rather than reshape it.

In the glass, Lessona is all about nuance. Sour cherry, wild strawberry and redcurrant lead, followed by rose petal, orange peel and dried herbs. There is a distinct ironstone and mineral note that feels inseparable from the place. The palate is finely drawn and energetic, with taut tannins, bright acidity and a long, savoury finish that lingers on floral and earthy tones rather than fruit weight.

This is Nebbiolo for people who love detail. It is not trying to overpower you, instead it draws you in slowly, glass after glass. Food brings it to life. Think veal, rabbit, porcini mushrooms, truffle dishes or simply good salumi and aged cheeses. It also rewards time, ageing gracefully and gaining complexity while keeping its lifted, Alpine freshness.

For anyone who thinks Nebbiolo only means Barolo, this wine is a gentle but persuasive argument to look north and rethink everything.