2012 Baumard Coteaux du Layon Clos St Catherine, Loire Valley

Glazed Jonagold apple and pear notes are laced with toasted macadamia nut and dried mango hints, with everything gliding through a honeysuckle-accented finish. Flattering, but has lift and tension for balance. A good effort for the vintage.

James Molesworth winespectator.com 

166g/l  From a single north-facing vineyard located just above the village of Rochefort-sur-Loire, providing a stark contrast to the richer fuller wines from the south-facing Quarts de Chaume. As a result the acidity here can be more marked and give exceptional ageing capacity and greater finesse and depth so that in some years it challenges the very best of Quarts de Chaume.

Baumard Coteaux du Layon Clos St Catherine is one of the Loire Valley’s truly great sweet wines, coming from a tiny walled vineyard overlooking the Layon River where morning mists roll in and autumn sunshine slowly burns them off, creating the perfect conditions for noble rot to form on Chenin Blanc. This special clos sits on schist and volcanic rock that stores heat through the day and releases it at night, helping the grapes reach extraordinary ripeness while still retaining the piercing acidity that makes Loire dessert wines so thrilling rather than cloying. Florent Baumard is one of Chenin Blanc’s great modern champions, blending deep respect for centuries old tradition with meticulous vineyard work and incredibly gentle winemaking to allow terroir to shine through even in such a concentrated style.

In the glass it glows a deep golden amber, opening with aromas of honeycomb, quince paste, baked apple, saffron and candied citrus peel, with a faint smoky mineral note from the schist soils underneath. The palate is luscious yet incredibly precise, layering apricot, marmalade, ginger and acacia honey around a vibrant line of acidity that keeps the wine alive and endlessly drinkable. This is not just a dessert wine but a gastronomic treasure that pairs beautifully with blue cheese, foie gras, roast pineapple, almond tarts and even spicy Asian dishes. In the cellar it is a marathon runner, easily capable of aging for decades, slowly evolving toward caramel, toasted nuts and dried fruit while still holding its remarkable freshness.