2012 Gosset Celebris Extra Dry, Champagne

Gosset's emblematic Chardonnay-dominant 2012 Extra-Brut Celebris is a more than worthy successor to the 2008, unwinding in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, verbena, freshly baked bread, green apple and wet stones, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and incisive palate that's layered, concentrated and tensile, with a tangy spine of acidity (the house's trademark) and a long, saline finish.

95+ points robertparker.com

A seriously mature Champagne, this vintage of Celebris is rich with fruit that has now softened. With rich acidity, the wine has now rounded with a beautifully textured wine that is very ready to drink.

96 points wineenthusiast.com

The 2012 Gosset Celebris Extra Brut is the flagship cuvée from one of Champagne’s oldest and most revered houses, a wine that embodies the harmony of precision, maturity and energy. Gosset, established in Aÿ in 1584, is a house that holds fiercely to tradition. There is no malolactic fermentation, allowing the wines to retain their backbone of natural acidity. The Celebris range is only declared in exceptional vintages, and 2012 is one of the finest in recent decades.

The blend in the 2012 is 70 percent Chardonnay and 30 percent Pinot Noir, sourced exclusively from Grand and Premier Cru sites, including Avize, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Vertus for the Chardonnay, and Aÿ and Ambonnay for the Pinot Noir. Each parcel is vinified separately with meticulous care, and the final assemblage is designed for elegance, complexity and longevity.

As always with Gosset, the wine sees no malolactic fermentation and undergoes an extended ageing period—here over 10 years on lees in bottle before disgorgement. The dosage is 5 grams per litre, placing it firmly in the Extra Brut category, enhancing purity and tension without sacrificing generosity.

In the glass, it pours a fine golden hue with a persistent mousse. The nose is expressive and layered, showing white flowers, pear, Mirabelle plum, chalk, toasted hazelnuts and a hint of orange zest. With air, notes of pastry cream, fresh brioche and iodine emerge. The palate is tense and tightly woven yet creamy at the core, unfolding slowly with lemon curd, grapefruit peel, almond praline and crushed shell minerality. The finish is long, mouthwatering and salty, with superb energy and poise.

This is a Champagne for contemplation and for cuisine. It shines with lobster tail in beurre blanc, turbot with beurre noisette, scallops with cauliflower purée, or simply aged Gruyère. It is drinking beautifully now but has a long life ahead—expect further complexity and nutty depth over the next 10 to 15 years.