2012 Valentin Zusslin Cremant Brut Zero, Bollenberg Alsace

The 2012 Valentin Zusslin Crémant Brut Zero is one of those wines that quietly resets expectations of what Crémant can be. This is sparkling wine with conviction, precision and a strong sense of place, made with the same seriousness and care that the Zusslin family brings to their greatest still wines.

Domaine Valentin Zusslin is based in Orschwihr, at the southern end of Alsace, beneath the Vosges Mountains. The family has been farming here since the late 1600s and today they are among the region’s most respected biodynamic producers. Their vineyards sit on complex limestone and sandstone soils, cooled by mountain air and shaped by long growing seasons that preserve acidity and aromatic detail. This environment is perfect for sparkling wine with tension and mineral drive.

Brut Zero means no dosage at all, nothing added after disgorgement to soften the edges. That decision demands immaculate fruit and absolute confidence in the vineyard. The 2012 vintage delivered exactly that. Made using the traditional method and aged extensively on lees, this Crémant is all about purity, texture and clarity rather than sweetness or flash.

In the glass, it is focused and expressive. Lemon zest, green apple and white peach lead, followed by crushed stone, chalk and subtle brioche notes from time on lees. The palate is bone dry and beautifully precise, with a fine bead, bright acidity and a long, saline finish that feels refreshing and mouthwatering rather than austere.

What makes this wine so compelling is its honesty. There is nowhere to hide, and it doesn’t try to charm you with sugar or gloss. Instead, it wins you over with energy, balance and quiet confidence, revealing more with each sip.

At the table, it shines with oysters, sashimi, shellfish, hard cheeses or anything that loves acidity and freshness. It is also a brilliant aperitif for those who appreciate crisp, mineral driven sparkling wines. With its structure and depth, it will continue to hold beautifully, but it is already drinking in a very satisfying place.