2013 Fontodi Chianti Classico DOCG, Tuscany

by Antonio Galloni, July 2016: There is little doubt Giovanni Manetti is at the top of his game. After tasting these wines from bottle along with multiple barrel samples, my impression is that Manetti continues to make small but important changes that are moving his wines towards a style that emphasizes finesse over sheer power. Of course, 2013 and 2014 both yielded generally delicate wines, so some of that may be attributable to vintage characteristics. It is too soon to tell for sure. The Sangioveses still see about two years in oak, which is on the longer side, but the gradual introduction of casks in the cellar appears to be playing a significant role in giving the wines added polish and elegance.

The 2013 Chianti Classico is gorgeous. It impresses for its total polish and finesse. Of course, some of that may be attributable to the late-ripening vintage. In my view, slightly shorter macerations and more use of large format oak plays a role here. At the same time, there is plenty of Fontodi's signature textural richness, but also striking aromatic presence and tons of persistence. A closing burst of acidity adds vivacity to the dark red and blue stone fruit flavours. The 2013 is fresh, less heavy and also less oaky than some recent editions. This is an absolutely impeccable wine from Fontodi. - Antonio Galloni, July 2016