2013 Rudolf Furst Centgrafenberg Spatburgunder GG, Franconia

It was the Bürgstadter Centgrafenberg Spätburgunder 'R' (the 'R' since dropped by the estate) which many years ago convinced me that Germany could compete with the top Pinot Noirs of the world. Even if burgundy clones are used, the Centgrafenberg is never a burgundy copycat and has shaped a personality of its very own with that trademark composition of red berry fruit, spicy-smoky barrique aromas and a truly cool minerality. The 2013 differs little from its predecessors, thanks to the grapes picked à point to tame the exuberant acidity of the vintage while delivering perfect ripeness and great purity of fruit. It probably is the most elegant of Fürst’s Grosse Gewächse, not as ostentatious as the other two, a gentleman of Pinot Noir.

93 points, Michael Schmidt jancisrobinson.com