2013 Smidge Magic Dirt Greenock Shiraz, Barossa Valley

Three Magic Dirt Shirazs were made in ?13, each a best barrel selection, transferred to older French oak after mlf for 24 months maturation. Deeply coloured as are all the Magic Dirt wines. Black fruits; intrigue of charred meat; very powerful; full-bodied; the flavours flow on directly from the bouquet.

96 points James Halliday Wine Companion

Magic Dirt has been inspired by the various sub regions’ terroir of South Australia’s Barossa Valley. After several years of trials, we originally chose three subregions that show profound differences, but still reflect the true qualities of great Barossa Valley Shiraz. All vineyards selected are trellised with a single cordon, single catch wire, and planted with the clone 1654.  

In 2012 the range was extended with a wine from a vineyard on Mengler’s Hill in Eden Valley, and in 2013 a fifth wine was included from Willunga in McLaren Vale. The philosophy has remained the same…the barrel selected truly showcases the vineyard it is from and not every subregion is selected every year if the representation is not seen.

Black core with deep red rim.The richest and fullest of the Barossa Valley vineyards, the aromas are fresh and lifted with black and purple fruits, meaty notes, graphite, earth and spice.This wine explodes with a fresh and juicy entry of dark fruits, chocolate and earth which carry through the palate and then fine spicy tannins pull everything together to a long seamless finish. Cellaring There is a lot going on here and as a result, I feel that this wine will drink well 2016 – 2035.

From the western edge of the Barossa, Greenock has a way of producing Shiraz with real depth and swagger, thanks to its slightly warmer conditions and those iron rich, red brown soils that seem to amplify richness without losing structure. Smidge Wines, led by Matt Wenk, has built a loyal following for wines that are bold yet polished, and Magic Dirt is very much the flagship, drawn from old vine parcels that deliver intensity in spades.

With a decade of age under its belt, the 2013 has moved into a beautifully expressive phase. Dark plum and blackberry still sit at the core, but now they are layered with liquorice, dark chocolate, espresso and a touch of earthy spice. There is a savoury drift as well, hints of dried herbs, leather and a gentle graphite note that speaks to both site and time in bottle.

The palate is full and generous, yet it has settled into itself. Tannins are velvety and integrated, carrying rich black fruit, cocoa and spice through a long, warming finish. There is power here, no question, but it feels composed rather than heavy, with enough structure to keep everything in check.

This is made for slow cooked flavours. Think braised beef cheeks with rosemary, lamb shoulder falling off the bone, or chargrilled ribeye with a pepper crust. It also works beautifully with aged hard cheeses where that savoury edge in the wine really comes alive.

Fully in its drinking window now, though it will comfortably hold for another five to eight years, continuing to evolve towards more earthy, tertiary complexity.