2013 Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz, Nagambie Lakes

The colour is deep, the wine medium to full-bodied, with fruit ranging through red to purple to black; the tannins are ripe and supple, oak contributing a little more than usual, but not egregiously so.

95 points James Halliday winecompanion.com.au

Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz is one of the great heritage wines of Victoria, a bottle that connects modern drinkers directly to the early days of Australian wine. It is named in honour of Eric Stevens Purbrick, who guided Tahbilk through much of the twentieth century and was instrumental in preserving its old vineyards and traditional winemaking ethos. Tahbilk itself dates back to 1860, making it one of Australia’s oldest family owned wineries, with deep roots in the fertile floodplains of Nagambie Lakes.

The vineyards sit along the Goulburn River on rich alluvial soils, with a warm climate moderated by nearby waterways. This unique setting gives Shiraz a distinctive style, generous and plush but with an underlying savoury, earthy complexity that sets Nagambie Lakes apart from other Victorian regions.

The Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz is made from Tahbilk’s oldest and best blocks, often from vines planted many decades ago. The winemaking is deliberately traditional, allowing time, gentle handling and extended ageing to shape the wine into something layered and expressive rather than flashy.

In the glass, it shows dark plum, blackberry and black cherry, with notes of liquorice, clove, leather and a gentle earthy undertone. The palate is full and generous, yet shaped by fine, resolved tannins and a long, savoury finish. There is richness, but also a sense of history and place running through it.

This is a natural partner for hearty food. Roast lamb, slow cooked beef, game meats, rich stews or aged cheddar all work beautifully, bringing out its depth and complexity.

Tahbilk Eric Stevens Purbrick Shiraz is drinking well with time in bottle, but it is also built to age. Expect it to continue evolving gracefully for fifteen to twenty five years, developing more leather, spice and savoury nuance as it matures. It is a true piece of Australian wine heritage and a reminder of how distinctive Nagambie Lakes can be when old vines and careful hands come together.