2013 Thousand Candles Red Blend, Yarra Valley

Remains one of the most interesting enigmatic endeavours in Aus wine but it also remains a work in progress. The fact that it's producing wine of this quality along the way points to its future status. This release is highly polished and beautifully tannic, its curls of dryness adding gravity to fruit flavours of boysenberry, licorice, beetroot and violet. Dry spice and hay-like characters add savouriness to the show. Variety isn't the name of the game, it's all about site, but the use of shiraz, pinot and sauvignon blanc here give the wine an architectural vibe; the materials aren't stock standard, everything feels thought-out and precisely placed.

93 points James Halliday Wine Companion