2014 Devaux Vintage D, Champagne

Lovely depth with layers of cooked-apple and brioche character. Medium-bodied with a solid core of fruit and a long, flavorful finish. Plenty of tarte tatin and brioche at the end but dry. 50% malolactic fermentation. 10 years on the lees. A blend of 48% pinot noir and 52% chardonnay. Disgorged May 2024. Drink now or hold.

95 points James Suckling

The 2014 is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with extended ageing on lees contributing complexity and a beautifully integrated mousse. The cooler conditions of the vintage preserved natural acidity, giving the wine excellent balance alongside its developing savoury character.

Bright golden straw with a delicate, persistent bead. Baked apple, ripe pear and preserved lemon mingle with toasted brioche, roasted almond and a hint of honey. The palate is supple and finely textured, with creamy bubbles, citrus freshness and subtle notes of pastry and spice. A gentle mineral character carries through a long, elegant finish.

Try it with Spanish tortilla topped with smoked trout, steamed prawn and ginger dumplings or roasted pumpkin with whipped feta and pepitas. Its savoury complexity also makes it a lovely match for a mushroom and thyme galette.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032. Already showing attractive maturity, with the freshness to develop further toasted and nutty complexity..