2014 Giacomo Brezza Santa Rosalia Nebbiolo d'Alba, Piedmont

Dusty, earthy and savoury bouquet, soft and beautifully balanced, the acidity in harmony with the rest of the components. Lovely wine, a definite step up from the regular Nebbiolo d'Alba. 11 Sep 2017 Drink 2017–2029

91 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com

Giacomo Brezza Santa Rosalia Nebbiolo d’Alba is a beautifully poised expression of Nebbiolo grown just outside Barolo, capturing the perfume and structure of the grape in a more immediately drinkable form. The Santa Rosalia vineyard lies on calcareous clay soils in the hills of Alba, a zone that has been quietly producing some of Piedmont’s most characterful Nebbiolo for generations. The site gives fruit with bright aromatics, fine tannins and a distinctly savoury edge.

The Brezza family has been making wine in Barolo since 1885, with a long tradition of farming with respect for the land. In recent decades they have embraced organic viticulture, allowing the vineyards to find natural balance and express their terroir more clearly. Their style is resolutely traditional, focusing on purity, elegance and ageability rather than excessive extraction or oak.

In the glass, Santa Rosalia shows all the hallmarks of great Nebbiolo, rose petal, sour cherry and wild strawberry, layered with dried herbs, spice and a gentle earthy note. The palate is medium bodied but firmly structured, with lively acidity and fine grained tannins giving shape and length. It is refined and expressive, offering real Barolo like character without the long wait.

This is a wonderful food wine. It shines with veal, roast pork, mushroom dishes, truffle pasta, risotto or aged hard cheeses, where its acidity and savoury structure really come into their own.

Giacomo Brezza Santa Rosalia Nebbiolo d’Alba is drinking beautifully now but will continue to evolve over eight to twelve years, gaining more complexity and harmony with time. It is a perfect introduction to the Brezza family’s Piedmontese style and a reminder of how expressive Nebbiolo can be just beyond Barolo’s borders.