2014 J J Hahn Stelzer Road Merlot, Barossa Valley

J J Hahn Stelzer Road Merlot is a beautifully expressive Barossa Valley red that shows just how compelling Merlot can be when grown on old vines in the right place. The Stelzer Road vineyard lies in the cooler western reaches of the Barossa, where gentle slopes, red brown earth over clay and cooler nights give Merlot time to develop flavour while holding onto freshness and fine tannin structure.

The Hahn family has been farming in the Barossa since the 1840s, and J J Hahn represents one of the valley’s great old vine treasures. These are vineyards planted by hand generations ago, now producing naturally low yields of intensely flavoured fruit. The approach is respectful and traditional, allowing the character of these old vines and their soils to come through in the glass.

The wine shows dark plum, black cherry and blackberry, layered with cedar, dried herbs and subtle spice. The palate is medium to full bodied, with supple yet finely shaped tannins and a savoury, gently earthy finish. There is richness here, but it is balanced by poise and structure rather than sweetness or heaviness.

This is a wonderful food wine. Roast lamb, beef, duck, mushroom based dishes or aged cheddar all pair beautifully, with the wine’s savoury depth complementing hearty flavours.

J J Hahn Stelzer Road Merlot drinks well now but will continue to evolve over eight to twelve years, developing more complexity and softness with time. It is a rare and quietly special Barossa Merlot that highlights the beauty of old vines and a truly historic site.