2014 Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz, Grampians

From the Langi Old Block, planted '63, hand-picked, separate ferments of 70% crushed, 20% whole bunches and 10% whole berries, cold soak, cultured yeast, 3 weeks on skins, matured in French oak (35% new) for 16 months. While full-bodied, this has exceptional poise and elegance, reflecting its fastidious vinification. Intense red, purple and black fruits, ripe tannins and cedary oak are members of an orchestra playing Beethoven under the direction of a great conductor.

98 points James Halliday winecompanion.com.au

Ripe but medium-weight, impeccably well balanced but with its character fully intact. Nothing is left to chance: it's expressive of assorted spices, fruits, leathers and woods, but it's simultaneously neat, fresh and finely stitched. Elegant, even. It doesn't just take a series of right steps; it doesn't take any wrong or even questionable ones. The length and class of the finish isn't just unsurprising then; it feels, as you swallow, inevitable. It will continue to impress for decades.