2015 Albino Rocca Barbaresco Ovello Vigna Loreto, Piedmont

Barbaresco’s Ovello cru spans a ridge, with both slopes of the crest planted to vines. Within this large cru there are several ‘delimited’ parcels of vines (historical plots if you like), of which Rocca’s Vigna Loreto is one. It is a tiny plot that is effectively what the French would call a monopole. Sitting on the sunnier, southwestern face of the ridge, these vines directly face the moderating influence of the Tanaro river, so the nights here are much cooler. The clay and limestone soils are sandier and lighter than the rest of Ovello, giving the wines far more finesse. On the other hand, vines from Loreto must be cropped at 10 hl/hl less than other Ovello vines (if it is to be bottled under the Loreto name), so the Rocca wine has real density and is typically more supple and textural than the nearby Ronchi cru and certainly denser than Montersino. Rocca’s vines here are around 45 years old and the fruit was first vinified as a separate bottling in 1990. Today the Ovello cru makes roughly 200 cases in a typical year. This is deeper and more primary than the wines above and with a more profound structure. It could do with some time. But as the notes below make clear, it’s a pretty handy wine!

‘The 2015 Barbaresco Ovello Vigna Loreto is beautifully lifted in the glass. Even in this warm vintage, the Loreto retains the nerve and tension that are such signatures of this Barbaresco vineyard. Crushed flowers, dried herbs, mint and chalk are all nicely delineated in a precise, finely sculpted Barbaresco endowed with real character. Readers should plan on cellaring the 2015 for at least a few years before diving into bottles.’