2015 Castagna La Chiave, Beechworth - limited

100% Sangiovese.The nose is of blackberries, raspberry, sour black cherries with notes of chocolate and just a hint of truffle. In the mouth there are lovely cedary tannins with beautiful fruit which speaks of bright raspberries slightly caramelised apple and chocolate. It has a lovely mid-palate and a long savoury finish which seems to go on forever.

Time in barrel has mellowed this wine considerably, taking its time in the glass to reveal sangiovese's short-twitch muscle of edgy tannin and sappy acidity. Plenty of nerve, too. Red fruit allusions shimmer around a kernel of exotic herb and spice, from cardamom, anise and clove. Sapid of flavour, beguiling of texture and long. This is a mellow sleeper needing air to awaken.