2017 Castagna Un Segreto, Beechworth

Sangiovese & Shiraz

Aromatically complex with aromas of freshly turned earth, cigar box and sour cherry linked by lovely floral notes. The palate is vibrant and fresh with subtle notes of fine grained oak framed by fine powdery tannins, which gives the wine a textural richness. Cinnamon, nutmeg, star anise and cardamom add complexity. Dry and savoury without any hint of sweetness bringing together the best of both varieties.

Herbal. Sassafras. A carapace of firm twine soused tannins binds the more reclusive fruit to future possibility, rather than imminence. Sour cherry, orange zest, scoops of licorice all-sorts and cardamon. Mid-weighted despite the higher alcoholic buffering. More savoury and bony over sumptuous in this nascent stage. The 17’s boast a saline core with ferrous edges. Mulch and forestry undertones meld with Sangiovese’s inherent friskiness, serving to mitigate the higher alcohol of the vintage. Ironically, this vintage feels more compact and mid-weight despite the higher alcohol.

95 points Ned Goodwin MW winecompanion.com.au