2016 Domaine Georges Roumier Bonnes Mares Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits Burgundy

Note: from several parcels now totaling 1.89 ha that are divided between 40% terres rouges and 60% terres blanches

This is unusually high-toned with its pure essence of red berry fruit, especially pomegranate, earth and discreet spice nuances. There is a wonderfully refined texture to the stony, chiseled and focused broad-shouldered flavors that possess a taut muscularity that really comes up on the intensely saline and youthfully austere finish that is sneaky long. The addition of .5 ha of terres blanches is understandably going to change the nature of this wine to one that is somewhat more elegant if less powerful. I like the change but long-time fans should be aware that going forward, the Roumier BM has changed and arguably for the better. In a word, superb. Drink: 2036+ Tasted: Jan 10 2019,

the crop level averaged just 26.5 hectoliters per hectare but Roumier had frost issues only in his vines closer to the village of Chambolle, with one of his northern plots--on red soil--yielding 40 h/h): Bright medium red. Sexy, slightly high-toned aromas of raspberry, mocha and minerals; but a bit less floral than usual at this early stage. Wonderfully spicy and sweet on the palate, showing surprising energy and a piquant black pepper note to its concentrated dark berry and spice flavors. This wonderfully fleshy, silky Bonnes-Mares is distinctly relaxed in the context of the vintage and almost too easy to taste today. Finishes ripely tannic and very long. Roumier has a new 0.5-hectare parcel of Bonnes-Mares on white soil (through a share-cropping arrangement with investors) as of the 2016 harvest.

92-95 points Stephen Tanzer vinous.com

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