2016 Domaine Paul Pillot Aligoté, Burgundy

“Domaine Paul Pillot is one of those producers making whites with a real gleam, a luminous clarity. I taste hundreds of wines in Burgundy week, and have to scramble through my notes to check in with my views on many of them, but with Domaine Paul Pillot I remember where the table was in the room, and where I was standing as the wine hit my tastebuds.” 

“Characterful, elegantly textural and mouthwateringly incisive, these are superb white Burgundies, and to my mind, Pillot is one of a handful of exciting producers who win Chassagne-Montrachet the title of Burgundy's most interesting white wine producing village today. That he stills flies somewhat under the radar—at least relative to the quality to be found here—is perplexing. What's more, that's bound to change, and sooner rather than later, so readers shouldn't hesitate to buy whatever bottles they can find.” 

In a remarkable change of fortunes for this once overlooked grape, Aligoté is the buzzword in Burgundy right now. From either Estate-owned vines or rented parcels of old-vine Aligoté dotted around Burgundy, a number of top growers are crafting some astonishingly delicious whites. 

Pillot’s delicious example is drawn from 1.5 hectares of Estate-owned vines in Chassagne as well as several parcels in the Côte Chalonnaise. The grapes are whole-bunch pressed and naturally fermented. This cuvée then spends time on its lees, with no stirring, in both stainless steel tanks and older oak barrels. The tanks obviously preserve freshness, while the barrels give more mid-palate richness and texture.

This 2016 is a perfect example of the combination; a taut and focussed white Burgundy, with pulpy lemon curd and citrus aromas and flavours, alongside a bright palate that finishes crunchy and racy.