2016 Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs, Champagne

The 2016 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Terre de Vertus unwinds in the glass with aromas of citrus zest, crisp yellow orchard fruit, brioche, honeycomb and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy, it's bright and chiseled, with excellent depth at the core, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. The Larmandier family invariably excel in cooler, more classic vintages, and this wine is no exception to that rule.

As I've written before, Larmandier-Bernier numbers among the Côte de Blanc's—and Champagne's—finest estates. Based in Vertus, the Larmandier family farms organically and harvest late, vinifying the resulting wines in wood. The result is vinous, elegantly muscular Champagnes that are concentrated but precise. In a region that still produces far too many meager, brittle wines, Larmander-Bernier reminds us of the plenitude and texture of which great Champagne is capable. The range begins with two non-vintage Blanc de Blancs: Latitude, broad and charming; and Longitude, more chiseled and incisive. Next come three vintage cuvées: Vieille Vigne de Levant, from Cramant; Les Chemins d’Avize, from the eponymous village; and the Terre de Vertus. Two perfumed rosé de saignée cuvées complement the portfolio, now joined by small quantities of still red and white Côteaux Champenois. This year sees the release of a one-off Blanc de Noirs, produced from grapes deemed too ripe for rosé production in the 2015 vintage.

94 points William Kelley robertparker.com

Terre de Vertus is one of three single-terroir Blanc de Blancs produced at this estate, and certainly the most famous. It is from a parcel of vines situated on the chalky mid-slope of Vertus, traversing the 1er Cru lieux-dits of Les Barillers and Les Faucherets. These sites produce intensely mineral wines; wines that recall the best of Le Mesnil (to the north) in their chalky raciness and drive.

This fermented naturally with roughly 60% fermented and aged in neutral barrique and the other 40% in large Stockinger casks. Malolactic conversion began spontaneously, and the wines were left on their lees for nearly a year. After the second fermentation the wine aged on cork for another six years before being disgorged. There is no addition of dosage in order to respect the purity of the terroir. The result is one of the most distinctive and mineral wines of the entire Champagne region—and one of the benchmark wines of the great grower movement.