2016 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru Champans, Cote de Beaune, Burgundy

In contrast to the precocious 2017, the 2016 Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans is tight-knit and reserved and will demand patience. Offering up aromas of plums, cherries, violets, dark chocolate and forest floor, the wine is, medium to full-bodied, chewy and firm, with lovely depth at the core but an imposing, muscular chassis of fine-grained tannin that asserts itself on the finish. I have no concerns about the balance of this Champans, but readers should plan on waiting at least a dozen years before pulling corks. Drink 2028-2065.

A fresh yet notably ripe nose is composed by liqueur-like aromas of plum, spice and earth. The delicious, refined and once again strikingly pure flavors are a bit less muscular and mineral-driven than those of the Taillepieds yet the tannic spine shaping the lingering if ever-so-slightly warm finish is just as firm. This is going to require at least moderate patience before it begins to be approachable.Drink 2028+.