2016 Michel Gonet Mesnil sur Oger Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, Burgundy

There is something rather special about Champagne from Le Mesnil sur Oger, a village whose chalky vineyards have produced some of the world's most celebrated Blanc de Blancs. The Gonet family has been growing grapes in Champagne for generations, with Michel Gonet establishing his own house in 1973. Today, the estate continues to champion Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, producing Champagnes that favour purity, freshness and the unmistakable mineral character of their vineyards. This 2016 Grand Cru is a lovely example of that tradition, combining the finesse of Le Mesnil with the complexity that comes from extended bottle ageing.

Made entirely from Chardonnay grown in the Grand Cru vineyards of Le Mesnil sur Oger, the wine reflects a village renowned for its intensely chalky soils and naturally structured fruit. The 2016 growing season was challenging, with a difficult spring followed by a warm, dry finish that allowed the best Chardonnay vineyards to achieve excellent ripeness. Extended maturation on lees has added richness and savoury complexity while preserving the firm acidity that makes Le Mesnil Champagnes so distinctive. The result is a beautifully mature Blanc de Blancs with the tension and depth to reward both immediate drinking and further cellaring.

Pale gold with bright silver reflections and a fine, persistent bead. Lemon curd, crisp green apple and white peach mingle with toasted brioche, almond and a delicate suggestion of acacia blossom. Notes of oyster shell, chalk and preserved citrus emerge as the wine opens. The palate is beautifully focused, with ripe citrus and orchard fruit carried by a fine, creamy mousse. Toasted hazelnut and subtle pastry notes add texture, while lively acidity and a pronounced chalky character bring freshness and definition. The finish is long, dry and gently saline, with lingering lemon peel and mineral detail. There is real elegance here, but also the substance and complexity expected of a mature Grand Cru Champagne.

Fresh oysters, scallops with lemon butter or grilled King George whiting would be excellent companions. Crab ravioli, lobster with a light beurre blanc or a leek and Comté tart would also complement its richer, savoury character. Serve cool rather than icy cold, preferably in a generous white wine glass, to appreciate the wonderful aromatic detail that develops as it warms slightly.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2035. Already showing lovely maturity, with sufficient acidity and structure to develop further toasted and savoury complexity over the coming years.