2016 Reichsrat von Buhl Grosses Gewächs Pechstein Riesling, Pfalz, Germany

The name of this ancient renowned site comes from the German word for 'pitchstone', the black basalt rocks that dominate this vineyard's soil. These rocks are the legacy of the Pechsteinkopf volcano and grant the soil an intensely smoky, mineral profile, that in turn marks the wines from this site with an unmistakable precision and intensity and a spicy, smoky and iodine character. Two other idiosyncrasies of the site are a higher than average portion of clay (for Forst) that aids water retention and the presence of a 2-metre layer of limestone that is penetrated by the oldest vine roots. Von Buhl is the largest holder in this site, farming some 5-hectares (out of 17). Intensely deep, spicy and racy, this is the most tightly wound of the Rieslings we offer today – expect racy, yellow plum, citrus pith and white floral notes and lots of salty, smoky complexity – but it is also perhaps the most impressive. The note below sums it up well.

Penetratingly pungent and high-toned aromas of peppermint, boxwood and lemon zest cover over any aromatic influence there might be from a relatively new Austrian cask. The feel here is polished and strikingly waxy. Alkaline and saline notes serve for enhanced invigoration and saliva-inducement on a resonant and rich yet refreshingly bright finish. Last tasted from cask shortly before an August 2017 bottling, this wine will have a lot more to say given a bit of time.