2016 Schloss Lieser Bernkasteler Doctor GG Mosel

Wines like this are getting harder to find. Given the limited amount of the top end German rieslings available, this wine still represents fantastic value for money. 2016 Schloss Lieser Bernkasteler Doctor GG Mosel, packs a whole lot in, while remaining elegant. Lively lemony-lime minerality leads to a more complex array of fruit. Just when you think  it's done, delicate rounded fruit emerges. 

This leads with site-typically musky animality and decadent floral perfume, but also with intimations of zesty lemon and pit-inflected white peach that emerge as juicy profusion and invigorating piquancy on a glossy, expansive palate. The finish here is surprisingly sedate, but in its understated way impressively persistent and complex, mingling nut oils, musky inner-mouth perfume and white peach, all vividly underlain by wet stone. “I didn’t expect to harvest Doctor last of my Grosse Gewächse,” related Haag, “and I certainly wasn’t looking to achieve more advanced ripeness than with the others – on the contrary. It just turned out that I could let these grapes hang, perhaps because these are very old vines trained to single posts and with very loose but small clusters” (which meant plenty of air circulation).

92 points vinous.com David Schildknecht